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alabastamasta
Beginner May 2014

FINALLY! How an (my) ER is made - with flashes!

alabastamasta, 1 November, 2013 at 00:36 Posted on Planning 0 26

I thought now my ring is FINALLY finished, I would do a little ‘how a ring is made’ post.

Apologies in advance for any rambling and/or epic flashes Smiley tongue


Background

OH and I have been together since Dec ‘07. We had a little girl in August ‘11 after nearly 3 years of living together. She is an awesome pirate-obsessive, but that’s another story! We had been talking about getting married off and on for ages, and finally one day, OH asked me what diamond I would recommend for:

“My friend’s girlfriend who has really, really similar taste to you”

So I replied:

“How much do you want to spend? I’ll get some stones and we can pick one”

Ah, romance! Smiley tongue If you haven’t already guessed, I’m a jeweller, hence the practical approach to this particular task! So I phoned my stone dealer, and ‘borrowed’ a few stones to bring home on the train - in my pocket. As you do.


After much ‘umming’ and ‘ah-ing’, we picked one - my fave cut, a cushion - and then I left it to OH to pay for it and I had to forget everything that had happened so far. Then, on my birthday in March this year, he proposed with a little box, with just the stone in Smiley smile

Then on to the designing!

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The idea

I knew I wanted something not completely traditional and that pink and grey diamonds also had to feature. After some doodling, I came up with this rough sketch of the ER and matching wedding band; the idea is different size pink and grey diamonds are scattered randomly on both the sides of the ER and in 2 areas on the wedding band, so it looks like a more unusual eternity band:



I then drafted in my friend who’s ER I had previously made to take up the design from there (it’s bad luck for me to make mine and I wanted her to help with the design anyway) who did some technical drawings - with a slight delay due to having her second baby in the middle of the process!

---

The initial model

Once we had her technical sketches that determined the scale of the ring and the style of setting, I took it to a goldsmith friend who carved the piece in wax. As it’s a bit of a chunky design and I wanted the setting and the shank to all be made from one piece, casting was the best option for me. It also meant that I could use 100% recycled platinum which I really wanted to do. So after some tweaking and reducing the weight of the wax wherever possible, we came up with the wax model that was ready to be sent for casting:




In the meantime, I borrowed a load of grey and pink diamonds of varying sizes to make the scatter design on the sides of the ring


The casting

Took about a week to arrive, and here is platinum in its raw, uncast form:


Which is a bit rough and needs a lot of cleaning up. So, back to the goldsmith to get the casting ready for hallmarking and setting. In order to hallmark something, the worst of the roughness needed to be taken off the inside of the ring as otherwise when you cleaned the piece up, you could clean out the hallmark. Hallmarking takes about a week or so. This is a rough clean up, with the stone balanced in, just before going for hallmarking:


Once the piece was back from the Assay Office (hallmarking) and had a bit more of a clean up, it went to the setters for the ‘pre-setting’. This is where the setting for the main stone is prepared to fit the diamond, but the stone isn’t set. It’s not set so that it can go to the polishers and have the inside of the setting polished to help bounce light around inside the setting - this is only really done on full ‘rubover’ settings like mine, where no light can get in from anywhere.


Before setting polish:


After:



Setting!

Next, the ring went back to the setter and the scatter design was laid out. This took me a couple of weeks to get right, and it still isn’t 100% because I need to get hold of some really small (under 1mm diameter) stones to help with the scattered effect.

But nevertheless, it was set today and I have FINALLY GOT IT ON MY HAND!



There are still a few stones missing, and it needs its final polish, but here it is! And I LOVE IT Smiley laugh




26 replies

Latest activity by goldpants, 2 November, 2013 at 22:36
  • Ohwhatatuesday
    Beginner May 2014
    Ohwhatatuesday ·
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    Wow its beautiful! What an interesting ring and a very pretty diamond! This is really interesting to see the process, thanks for sharing. The casting looks a bit like a haribo sweet and has got me craving sugary snacks first thing in the morning!

    • Reply
  • *Pugsley*
    Beginner March 2014
    *Pugsley* ·
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    Wow.

    Your ring is absolutely stunning!

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  • DaffodilWaves
    DaffodilWaves ·
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    Really pretty. Completely worth the wait!

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  • MrsOh
    Beginner May 2014
    MrsOh ·
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    YAY!! Your finally able to wear it. It looks amazing, thanks for going through the process - interesting to see all the stages. Something that's very special to you both too. Well done!

    x

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  • InWineTheresTruth
    Beginner July 2015
    InWineTheresTruth ·
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    What a beautiful ring! and a really interesting post! I want one now! !! xx

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  • ebony_rose
    Genius
    ebony_rose ·
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    Lovely ring. Really interesting to read too. Sure beats walking into H Samuels and picking one off the display. Fab.

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  • *J9*
    VIP March 2014
    *J9* ·
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    Beautiful ring! So worth the wait

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  • alabastamasta
    Beginner May 2014
    alabastamasta ·
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    Thanks guys - thought it might be interesting for you to see how a ring is made. Most of the Alba Rose rings will be cast like mine, only from a 3D printed wax, so a lot of you will have had rings going through similar processes Smiley smile

    • Reply
  • I-go-by-many-names
    Super April 2015
    I-go-by-many-names ·
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    Thanks a lot for this, so educational! I'm glad you've finally got the ring you wanted :-)

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  • suzysimpson
    Beginner August 2013
    suzysimpson ·
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    That is so beautiful!! You are very talented, I'm a little jealous!!

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  • F&GBride
    Beginner May 2014
    F&GBride ·
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    I've been looking forward to seeing this. The end result is gorgeous. You'll never take your eyes off it now.

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  • H
    Beginner August 2014
    HundredMonkeys ·
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    I love it's thickness and the way the diamond sits. Lovely ?

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  • miss pickle
    Beginner June 2014
    miss pickle ·
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    It's gorgeous ❤️

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  • alabastamasta
    Beginner May 2014
    alabastamasta ·
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    Thanks guys!

    F&GBride - I'm having troubles not looking at it, haha!

    HundredMonkeys - yeah, I really like chunky jewellery, so always knew I'd have a bit of a hefty beast! Makes all the difference when you only have to pay cost price for the metals - don't think we'd have had a hope of affording something like this in the shops! I designed it so that the wedding band can be straight and still sit flush next to the ER - that way I get to spin it around and look at all the pretty pink and grey diamonds I'll be putting in it. Whee!

    Going to start the wedding band next week - will do a flash of that in stages too! Smiley laugh

    • Reply
  • alyj66
    VIP August 2014
    alyj66 ·
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    Thank you for sharing the process it's really interesting and your ring is just WOW! Congratulations again.

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  • G
    gemmalawrencex ·
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    Wow! That is a very very pretty ring. Your a lucky girl Smiley smile
    I want one .. ❤️

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  • G
    gemmalawrencex ·
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    Wow! That is a very very pretty ring. Your a lucky girl Smiley smile
    I want one .. ❤️

    • Reply
  • Kjay
    Beginner August 2013
    Kjay ·
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    Excellent thread- thank you for sharing and such a beautiful ring Smiley smile

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  • tayto
    Beginner May 2013
    tayto ·
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    Brilliant thread - really interesting read. Your ring is fab & thanks for sharing this with us!

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  • alabastamasta
    Beginner May 2014
    alabastamasta ·
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    Thanks! Smiley smile

    I realised that not many people know how much work goes into making a ring, so I thought it might be interesting to show some of the stages - and of course I get to flash my new shiny beast! Smiley laugh

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  • H
    Beginner August 2014
    HundredMonkeys ·
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    Ah so that's why the ER has flat-ish sides unlike usual ER rings which are more rounded. Aren't you a clever one Smiley smile we're getting our wedding bands custom made. I shall bear these little details in mind...

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  • *MM3*
    Beginner June 2014
    *MM3* ·
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    That's a beautiful ring!! So interesting seeing how it's made, fascinating!!
    Lovely Smiley smile

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  • alabastamasta
    Beginner May 2014
    alabastamasta ·
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    View quoted message

    Yeah; fit of the rings is always really important - especially if you want any detailing in the WR. I always knew I'd want diamonds all the way around mine - similar to the sides of the ER - and as they'll be scattered all over, I wanted to be able to spin the ring around and look at all the different stone patterns Smiley smile

    Fitted/shaped/interlocking bands look good too - I just knew that I didn't really want that. You can get a straight band if your setting is high enough; just depends on the ER really Smiley smile

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  • IGB2B
    Beginner May 2014
    IGB2B ·
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    Wow! Fascinating to see how it's done.

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  • A
    Beginner May 2014
    Amora Nail & Beauty ·
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    One word WOW!!

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  • goldpants
    Beginner May 2014
    goldpants ·
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    Wow that is one gorgeous ring, as soon as I read grey and pink diamonds I knew it was gonna be! *swoon*

    You've helped make me a very patient customer whilst waiting for my wedding ring from AR, I fully understand the difficult process now! It has now been throgh all those stages but one.... being on my finger haha!!! But it is finished, being delivered asapSmiley smile Smiley smile They are very happy with the finished result fingers crossed I will be too!!!

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