I'm Back. Sorry for not being around but if I can help, i'm here.

Welcome back, Marc! Don't be a stranger.

Welcome back! Hope everything is hunky dory!

Hey Marc! Good to 'see you' around these parts again. How is married life?

Married life is awesome! Thanks.

Its good to be back. ?

Oo oo oo I do!

My partner has bought a lovely two-piece suit, but really wants a three piece. It was going to have a matching waitcoat, but that isn't available until Novemeber now (we were previsouly told we could buy it last month).

So plan B, we bought another HUGE pair of matching trousers, and it seems there will be plenty of fabbric for the front pieces of a waistcoat as he is only a 38-40 inch chest.

One tailor said it will cost £350 to knock up a waistcoat with us supplying fabric, backing satin and buttons. We said you are having a laugh!

I have since found an alterations lady who frequently makes waistcoats from the bridesmaids dress fabric. She has said no problem to using the extra trousers and will make it for £45 providing we pay for the backing fabric. We have seen some of her other 'wedding' waistcoats and they look great.

Anyway, my question!!

What is the most classic style for the waitcoat of a three-piece suit? They appear to finish lower than the satiny wedding waistcoats (about 1 or two inches above the suit jacket when done up, whereas the wedding ones can be a good 5 inches higher). How many buttons is standard (at the moment he is thinking 4 or 5). Because when you can suddenly choose from several patterns, your mind goes blank with what you wanted in the first place. Thank you.

?

Hiya Ducky,

£350.00 seems a bit steep for CMT waistcoat. But then if he is a very good tailor maybe? hmm. The very good tailors I know, would not do that kind of job anyway, so it seems a bit weird. You were right not to go through with that (i think).

On the other end of the spectrum £45.00 could be too little (in my opinion only). Making a waistcoat is all about the correct patterns. Anyone can make a waistcoat (literally anyone, if you buy a cheep pattern from ebay and can use a machine) but not everyone has a good set of patterns. The pattern will determine whether or not the waistcoat fits like a waistcoat or just covers a body.

The height of the buttoning is determined by the button stand of the jacket. So if the buttoning on the jacket is high, so should the waistcoat. A three piece suit should be cut in scale. The Jacket, trouser and waistcoat should all be in scale with each other. In other words the waistcoat should be long enough to reach the trousers, the trousers should be high enough to reach the waistcoat and the button stands on both jacket and waistcoat should be in scale with each other.

Sorry Ducky I never answered the question! ?

4 or 5 buttons. It doesn't matter, it is the height of the button stand that makes the difference. if you look at the pictures above they both have 4 buttons on those waistcoats. A do these:

But they are all different patterns (different shapes of waistcoat). The number of buttons makes no difference.

Thanks for getting back to me.

I also thought £45 was quite cheap, but maybe it's because she won't have to buy anything as we are going to go with her to buy the fabric and buttons?

She has several patterns, and waistcoats made previously for us to look at and try on. She will take A's measurements and make a mock-up from our chosen design/pattern. Then we will go back when H2B will try on the mock-up and she will alter it to fit H2B perfectly (at this point we decide if it is the right height and buttons aligned etc). The she will take the mock-up apart and use that as the pattern. Finally when she has made the actual waistcoat from our chosen fabrics, she will do one last fitting to see if any tweaks are required, and alter if necessary. It certainly sounded like she knew what she was doing. I couldn't really ask for a better service for £45!

Hi there - I was wondering where you'd been and I did in fact want to ask your advice on something.

Mr Knees is looking for a pale blue suit (we're getting married abroad and old Mr Knees is a little bit alternative in his dress sense bless him!). Debenhams had a perfect Jeff Banks one in this time last year, but he wouldn't buy it at the time and, just our luck, they no longer have it.

My Google search for pale blue suits only throws up 70's fancy dress costumes!

Do you have any idea where we might be able to get him one? We don't mind spending a decent amount on it if need be.

Mrs Knees, have you tried Suitopia?

Hi Marc

How very topical for me, although today's quandary may not be strictly tailoring. I have found a men's tie today that we want for the groomsmen, but they don't do a small version for one who is only four. Is it possible to modify a men's tie to scale it down to boy size, do you think?

Thanks

Claire

That is incredible value for money. That is a lot of work considering she is only charging £45! Just make sure your OH takes the suit to any fittings (make sure the trousers and waistcoat meet round the waist). She does sound like she knows what she is doing but I would also take some waistcoat pictures to her when you are deciding on number of buttons, style, pockets etc. just so you are all on the same page, before cutting the trousers.

I would like to see the end results! post pics when its finished. ?

Thanks

Marc

Hi Knees,

I am sure lots of tailors would make you one. My prices start from £650.00.

There are lots of cheaper tailoring services too, like King and Allen an A Suit That Fits.

I would suggest trying Marc Wallace and Hackett

Other than this, you can only wait for the stores to bring in their Spring/Summer collections and hope they have something suitable.

Thanks

Marc

Hi Claire,

Yes it can be done.

It can be done in two ways.

Number one, take it apart re-cut it and re-make it. Takes a very long time and is fiddly annoying work.

Number two, cut the tie in half. Using the skinny end of the tie, tie a little knot in the top and sew it up at the back of the knot to keep it tidy. Then pass some elastic through the knot. You then have an elasticated tie for little one!

Thanks

Marc

Thanks Marc, we'll keep an eye out for stores' spring/summer ranges.

Clarabella - what a great website!

Hi Marc - good to see you back and hope you are enjoying married life!

Hi ?

Married life is all good thank you.