[quote]
Without doubt the most mental cookery programme you'll ever see, unless you're in the habit of necking six LSD tabs on a weekend morning and staring at Saturday Kitchen until James Martin's face turns into a singing horseshoe in space.[/quote]
Here's the rest.
Plus his earlier review of Heston Blumenthal: In Search of Perfection, which he thinks would have been better named Mr Impossible's Smartarse Kitchen.